So.
Originally, in the first posting of this rant, I had mentioned my disapproval of the distilling practices used to make the Single Malt. Ralph Erenzo, distiller from Tuthilltown, was quick to point out that I was unclear to my audience: While I didn’t agree with the idea of using new charred oak barrels, it is a necessity under U.S. law that it be matured in said barrels in order for it to be called a “Single Malt Whiskey”. For the ambiguity, I do apologize. My point was merely that there are other distillers who decide to make a Single Malt-style whiskey, but sacrifice the title for distillation uniqueness. A great example would be RoughStock Montana Whiskey: Montana-based malt, virgin oak barrels for maturity. Perhaps comparison is not the real issue here, for no one technique is superior. In the end, my palate does all the talking, and my subjective opinion of Tuthilltown’s malt-based whiskey is that it is not for me.
Secondly, I must address Mr. Erenzo’s problem with my anonymity. While I do respect, and I honestly do respect, the products made under the Tuthilltown banner, some of us kids lower on the totem pole don’t have the ability/luxury of attaching our names to our “opinions” . As mentioned in the “Bio” (which also received commentary by Mr. Erenzo), I am but a lowly barkeep, trying to find a creative outlet, honing my penchant for gastronomically-minded adjectivery, while still working for a larger entity to pay the bills. Because I do not wish to confuse my personal thoughts with the respected ethos of my employer, I am forced to write anonymously. If you would like to open means of personal communication, I would actually be quite honored to speak with you on private channels.
In closing, I’m not trying to hate on these whiskies. Really. They’re just not my preference. I’m also really jealous of their branding agency for coming up with a ridiculously eye-catching design. And I REALLY like the rye. Like alot. But I like other ones even moreso. There really are NO bad whiskies. I just like some more than the other.
So here is the post. I have taken out the ambiguously written parts about the distilling process of the Single Malt, leaving behind my tasting notes.
[End of line.]
Upon visiting any one of LA’s hip ‘n’ flashy new “cocktail” joints, you’ll undoubtedly run across these short stubby bottles lining the back bar. And how can you miss them? Your girlfriend probably leaned over and said “Oh! Look at that cute little bottle!” Your friend who’s way too geeky about his knowledge of typography will probably chime in and say, “Yeah dude, what’s with that cool looking bottle with the sleek labeling?” Yes, it’s true, New York-based Tuthilltown Spirits does have some wicked inventive branding. The quaint, apothecary-like bottles suggest an old-time-y spirit within, perchance a veritable bottled time machine of booze-like proportions, bringing us back to simpler age of whiskey drinking. Is that truly what the drinker discovers upon First Sip? Well, lets back it up with some exposition and analysis…after all, Empiricism is Imperative, no?
A Brief Overview
Since its inception in the early 2000s, Tuthilltown Spirits have become have the talk of the town in the American whiskey industry. Based in Gardiner, New York in the Hudson Valley, they utilize local resources from surrounding farms to supply the grain/fruit for their spirits. Pot stills are used for a traditional method of distillation, yet they have a unique approach to their spirit maturation process. Their barrel preferences can best be likened to a Russian doll: they use five different barrels sizes (3, 5, 7, 10, and 14 gallons), then blend to the needs of the desired product. The aging can range anywhere from as young as 5 months (3gal. bbl), to 2 years (14gal. bbl). I dare say the method gives the distillery a shortcut to maturation, seeking depth and complexity in a relatively short time. It kinda reminds me of Steve Rogers*, and the use of Super Serums and Vita-Rays.
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Hudson New York Corn Whiskey.
Corn whiskey, aka White Light’ng, aka Moonshine. Plus side? Made from 100% New York grown corn. Downside? Well, c’mon, its moonshine – not exactly my favorite spirit to begin with, and here it’s bottled a safe 80 proof. Andrew Schneider would be so disappointed.
The nose is somewhat intriguing, with hints of rose petal, rose water, and the obvious buttered popcorn. However, the palate betrays its nose, with sharp vegetal flavors of cut grass and corn husk (duh). Very green indeed, with a young, boorish quality that’s a bit too haphazard as it approaches the throat.
Verdict: There are better white whiskies out there, check out the clear stuff from Wisconsin’s Death’s Door or Utah’s High West.
Hudson Baby Bourbon.
This little bottle earns the title of first bourbon made in NY since Prohibition. The alliterating infant title originates from the fact that the bourbon is quickly aged for a few brief months in the aforementioned 3 gallon barrels (see picture above).
The nose definitely reeks of kettle corn, with a sweet and salty twang, with specks of homemade marshmallow to boot. Mouthfeel here is darty, with spikes jumping in, out, and around the tongue. The palate is very fruit driven, with lots of dried raspberry and sherried notes, leaving to a quick, almost abrupt finish.
Verdict: Not necessarily a bad entry into the vast lexicon of bourbons, and its approachability would make it a great midday sipper on the rocks. I’d give it a strong 7.7.
Hudson Single Malt Whiskey.
I will attempt to restrain myself…ish. The nose is flat, unexciting, and wayyyy to hot. Burnt graham crackers, pita bread. The new oak here only imparts aromas of particle board, IKEA desk, etc. The mouthfeel? About as focused as an 8-year-old lil’ tyke with ADHD, sent to Catholic school with a Slurpee and Sour Punch straws for breakfast. The palate? Cayenne pepper, more of that burnt graham cracker, more of that IKEA desk, flamed orange peel, and an iron maiden finish (the torture device, not the band.) Nose to palate, I long for some vestiges of sweet notes to balance the wood character. Alas, none is found…
Verdict: Double Meh. Two thumbs way Meh.
Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Whiskey.
Here’s an interesting little guy. The grain bill here is composed of 60% corn, the rest a speckled mixture of wheat, malted barley, and single grain rye. The result? Four Grains, get it? Um…anyway.
The nose is pretty nice, leaping forth with some red velvet cupcake with chocolate frosting, hints of Kriek, and a touch toasted rye bread crust. Mouthfeel unfortunately leaves something to be desired, as its linear nature slips straight down the middle of the tongue, leaving no fire trails in its path. Along its speedy descent, grain flavors take over, with little fruit sweetness or wood character to support.
Verdict: Sure, there’s vanilla, caramel, etc., but I want more! The palate is way too linear, with consecutive sips just bee-lining to the finish.
Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey.
They call it “The Return of the Quintessential New York Whiskey”. While I can’t say that I’ve had enough NY whiskies to verify that statement, I will attest that within this 375ml bottle, Tuthilltown finally has created a notable dram, a respectable Rye. It makes sense, really – the 100% single grain rye is sourced from local NY farmers. Where else better to find rye? I mean, most people’s first mental associations point to “The Marbled Rye Incident” (Seinfeld, Season 7, Ep. 11). Bottled at 92 proof, its enough to give your Manhattan, Sazerac, or Old Fashioned a hearty bite your palate will appreciate.
The nose at first waft offers the obvious spicy, grassy, herbal notes you’d expect from the rye grain. A second nosing later oozes with musty, sweet cologne, dried fruits, and wafts of orange blossom. The mouthfeel starts prickly and sharp, yet settles calmly after consecutive sips, or if its tamed with a drop of water. Red/White/Black pepper dominate the front of the palate, then a woody wash of Maple takes over for the middle run. Cinnamon and toffee are omnipresent, as the finish undulates between wood and heat.
Verdict: At long last we get to the Wheelhouse of Tuthilltown. It is here and only here that we I find something musical, something inspired. It makes for a great cocktail, and is a nice departure from the Rye Norm. Best utilized as an experimental addition/option to your Rye cabinet, a dram for when you wake up on the quirky side of the bed.
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Concluding Thoughts:
The Manhattan Rye is good…but I wouldn’t go leaping out of my way for the others. Don’t be swayed by clever branding. Look at the horrific bottle designs of some the best Scotches. The challenge of Style vs. Substance is difficult, and for these distillers to find it one in at least one bottle should be applauded.
I sincerely do commend Tuthilltown and their offerings. Maybe Hansel said it best in Zoolander:
“…the music he’s created over the years. I don’t really listen to it, but the fact that he’s making it, I respect that.”
*I apologize for the left-field Captain America reference. I’ve been engaging in one-too many casting discussions for the upcoming 2011 Marvel Studios film.
