From Portland, Oregon comes an amazing new dram. Starting in 1997, Tad Seestedt and The Ransom Project quickly established a name on the West Coast with small-production, biodynamically-grown Pinot Noir and Grappa releases. In the last three years, they have expanded their distilling lineup, now including some phenomenally complex interpretations of vintage gin recipes. At its wheelhouse stands Ransom Old Tom Gin. Working closely with Dave Wondrich, a specialist in the realm of Pre-Prohibition Era spirits, he has created a stunning reinterpretation of the classic “Old Tom”-style of gin.
Quick Gin History!
Towards the end of the 19th Century, the “modern” bar keep and bon vivants had their choice of three styles of gin: the traditional Genever, with its malty sweetness and fuller body; the newly emerging London Dry, skeletal in body, with sharper citrus twang; and Old Tom, a “missing link”, as it were, between the two styles, with a balance of sweet/dry.
In this author’s humble opinion, Tad has knocked it out of the park, expertly blending 19th & 21st Century distilling techniques. The mash is a mix of corn and malted barley based, distilled in pot stills to maintain the character and body. Juniper berries, orange & lemon peel, coriander seeds, cardamom pods, and angelica root are then brought into the picture, creating depth. Finally, a quick resting period aging in estate Pinot Noir barrels imparts a beautiful color, whilst mellowing and melding the edges of the spirit.
Ok ok. Enough exposition. How the heck does it taste?
Amazing.
The nose is rich, with oily grain and floral notes, encircled by the dark aromas of Christmas spice and lighter tones of tangerine peel. The spirit has a luscious, viscous mouthfeel – another positive effect of barrel aging. Jasmine, tamarind, salted butter, and green tea all tenderly grip the palate, while a restrained yet assertive spice character adds structure. The finish is dynamic, mouthwatering, spicy and smooth all at once. Damn if it doesn’t make for a great sipper, or a mayhaps an Old Tom Collins/Fix/Fizz/etc.
Post-Modernism in a glass. Gorgeous.
